No matter how much you learn through this journey, you can’t get started until you have a solid beginner toolset to get you through a good chunk of jobs.
Lucky for you, your favorite GreaseMonkey has a go-to shopping list of all the tools you will need, along with some tips about all of them.
I’ll throw some bonus tools in at the end, for when you are ready to upgrade to save more time or effort.
Links to many of these tools can be found in this article. Forewarning they are affiliate links.
Ratchets
You are gonna want at minimum a 3/8 inch ratchet and a 1/4 inch ratchet. These will be your most handled tools. I would at least grab a decent pair, Craftsmen, Husky, Duralast, Carlysle. I still use these on occasion, and at the house.
A 1/2 inch ratchet can come in handy, but you can get by without it initially.
When you are ready for an upgrade, I can’t speak well enough about a long handle, flex head, soft-grip ratchet.
This thing has become an extension of my hand. I’ve held it more than my kids, and I even like them.
The long handle gives you so much more breaking power, especially when it will fit more places with a flex head, and have a cushioned handle so you can beat on the grip and essentially turn yourself into an impact gun.
I once had mine break, and after growing accustomed to it, there’s no turning back. I bought an extra so if one broke I have another on deck.
Now that you’ve grabbed yourself some ratchets, you’ll need something to put on them.
Sockets
A solid socket set is a necessity, but you don’t have to break the bank here. Everyone under the sun will tell you to buy a standard SAE and metric set. PRO TIP- If you are on a budget, just grab a metric set. The majority of work on modern cars will not require SAE sizes.
I can’t tell you the last time I used an SAE socket besides 1/4inch on a car newer than 2000. There is essentially overlap. 8mm=5/16, 10mm=3/8, 13mm=1/2inch, 19mm=3/4inch, etc.
Ideally, you will want a set of shallow metric sockets and a set of deep metric sockets. Same ordeal, Craftsmen or Husky works for now. I have nice sockets that cost over $200 a set, and I still often find myself grabbing my store-brand sockets.
Once you have those picked out feel free to do the same with SAE sizes, but remember that’s only for older American cars. No need for them if you only mess with Asian cars.
Extensions and Swivels
Nothing sexy here. Swivels can come in handy when things are at awkward angles. You will want varied lengths of extensions for your ratchets. You never know how deep you’ll need to go. This set will cover your basics.
Flashlight
Nothing is more miserable than not being able to see what you’re doing. Maybe falling asleep and getting a “u up” text right after, but that’s about it. So you’re gonna want a flashlight, probably several of different kinds.
A penlight is a must, and a headlamp comes in a close second. Everyone has their preference between the sizes and styles available, so grab what you prefer. I use a Streamlight Stinger and a Mac headlamp, but the main light I grab for is a flex head, magnetic light bar.
Wrenches
Because you need something to throw when something inevitably goes wrong.
These are the same story, you will need a metric set, and an SAE if you plan on fixing older American cars.
I still have and use a set of Craftsmen wrenches my dad got me when I was 12. Husky and the parts store brands also make some solid wrenches for a starter set.
The upgrade here, if you aren’t going pro, is to grab some GearWrench ratcheting wrenches. I promise you will rarely use your regular set after breaking a nut or bolt loose if you have a set of ratcheting wrenches.
I’ve had my GearWrench set for 10 years, the 14mm has broken twice (I’m rough on tools) but warranty replacement is free. Not an issue from any other wrench in the set. I suggest the set of metric/SAE regular and stubby lengths.
Pliers for days
I need to apologize in advance for unleashing you into the world of pliers. Once you buy a pair, you will scoop up almost every new kind you find. Because you may need it, or prefer it, or it fits better. You will never be done buying pliers. I’m sorry. But welcome to the club.
You can just grab a set from Harbor Freight or Walmart for your first set of pliers.
It should include cutters, needle nose, tongue-and-groove, linesman, and slip-joint pliers.
These will not satisfy you for long but will work as you start building your collection. Most jobs can be accomplished with this set, although it can get difficult the deeper into the engine bay you go, or the tighter the space you are working in.
As you can you will want to add long-handled needle nose pliers, different types of hose clamp pliers, wire strippers, and different sizes and grips of the styles you already have.
Hands down my favorite pliers are Irwin quick-adjust Vise-grip pliers. So versatile and easy to use. I don’t know anyone who has a pair and wouldn’t say the same. They come in several different sizes, and you know you will want them all eventually.
A special mention that doesn’t get nearly enough love is a set of Parrot Jaw pliers. These tighten as you turn, like a pipe wrench. I’ve used these to remove so many stripped nuts and bolts or turn rusted tie rods, or just to make sure that whether I want something to stay still, or move, it will cooperate. So many uses for these things.
Ok, I could go all day on pliers, but I’ll leave some exploring left for you to do whenever you are in a store with tools. Onward!
Screwdrivers
You will want to grab a set of screwdrivers that include Phillips and flathead screwdrivers in varying lengths and sizes, including stubby.
No need to get fancy here, I still occasionally use screwdrivers from the Harbor Freight set my dad got me when I was still a PimpledTeenageMonkey (though mainly as small pry bars or punches, I told you I’m rough on tools). These will do you well for a while. You can upgrade as you go to a better brand.
Breaker Bar and 1/2 inch Sockets
A breaker bar will be necessary with some 1/2inch-drive sockets to remove wheels and break loose larger or tighter bolts.
Some people have had luck with the Harbor Freight breaker bar, but I recommend at least grabbing a Craftsmen, Husky, or store brand. The better quality won’t bend as much which gives you much more leverage.
Take the time to feel a few of them. Some will just feel sturdier. Those are the ones you want.
Your 1/2 inch sockets get the same treatment as the smaller ones earlier. Metric first in deep then shallow, do the same with SAE when you can.
Pro Tip-Grab the sockets from Harbor Freight, and look for black impact sockets. Impact sockets are made to take far more of a beating and will last damn near forever. Once again, I still have the set dad got me at age 12. The only ones I've replaced are ones I’ve lost.
Multimeter
A multimeter isn’t necessary until you start diving into diagnosis, but it’s handy to have around the house anyway. Maybe you want to verify power is off before you Frankenstein yourself changing an outlet.
I haven’t had much luck with the sub-$20 ones you can find at Walmart, but most of them in the $20-30 range will get you by.
We will mainly use the 20v DC setting and the Ohms resistance to test wires and sensors for vehicle use.
Oil Filter Claw
The claw-style oil filter ratchet wrench will save you so much time and headache.
I’ve already found the perfect style so you don’t have to.
Extendable Magnet
You can grab one of these from any parts or tool store. You will inevitably drop socket or bolt somewhere down into the engine and not be able to reach your Monkey fingers down far enough to grab it. In comes the magnet. A real underappreciated hero in the garage.
Drain Pan
You are going to need a drain pan if you plan on doing anything involving a fluid system or change. I use a Rubbermaid tub more often than anything. Feel free to go as fancy as you like.
Extras
We are just going to shoot off some other things you can grab that will make your life easier or open up more repairs.
Air Compressor with air tools and impact wrench
A 3-gallon pancake compressor will handle most of what you will be doing at home. Air impacts and ratchets will make life easier removing and installing nuts and bolts. You can also get a corded 1/2 inch impact gun from Harbor Freight that works relatively well for at home use.
Cordless Impact
I really want to put this on the list of requirements. I use a cordless impact driver with a 3/8 or 1/4 inch adapter like a ratchet. Although not technically necessary, my Milwaukee 1/4 inch impact has gotten nearly as much use as my beloved long-handled ratchet. I’ve had it over 10 years, getting daily use. It just makes everything so much easier and quicker. If it fits, I’m probably using it.
Torque Wrench
You are supposed to be torquing nearly every bolt. To be honest we don’t do that all the time in the industry. There are bolts you should never put back on without the proper torque though, such as suspension and brake parts, or head bolts. You’ll want to grab one before getting into any of these repairs.
Fluids and Sprays
It’s a good idea to keep coolant, oil, transmission fluid, brake fluid, and power steering fluid specific to your vehicle, around.
Along with the fluids you will want to have some brake cleaner, degreaser, and WD-40 around.
Rags
Seriously, stock up on rags, or old T-shirts, paper towels, something to wipe things with, and on. Take it from your favorite GreaseMonkey. It’s a dirty job.
Cheat Section
You could grab a pre made mechanics set. They often come with a convenient case for storage.
These are a bit pricey if you are on a budget initially, but generally save you money vs. piecing all of that together. The storage is nice as well.
You can never have enough tools. Hopefully this list will get you situated well enough to start doing your own repairs and basic diagnosis though.
If you need any help or just want to show off the tools you got, comments, tweets and DMs are always open @BowTiedGreaseMonkey